A Historic Tour of Haigerloch

The name Haigerloch, meaning ‘grove of herons,’ was first mentioned in a document in 1095. In the castro (castle) of Haigerloch, relics of St. George were presented to the monastery of St. Georgen in the Black Forest. This original castle was likely situated near the "Roman Tower," which was built later as the castle's keep. At the time, the Counts of Haigerloch controlled the area to the left of the Eyach River.

Around 1170, after the founding family had died out, the Counts of Hohenberg became the lords of Haigerloch. They likely secured this position by marrying an heiress—a strategic move that proved its worth throughout history. Around 1200, they began building a new castle on a superior site: a rock ledge overlooking the right bank of the Eyach River, where the current castle stands today.

Haigerloch then became a residential seat, shifting the town's economic center. The Upper Town, on the rock ridge, remained primarily agricultural, while the Lower Town developed into a market area with workshops and public institutions. Haigerloch was officially granted town privileges at the beginning of the 13th century.

During the reign of Count Albrecht II of Hohenberg-Haigerloch (1258–1298), a brother-in-law to King Rudolf of Habsburg, the town experienced a golden age of tournaments and fine arts. Albrecht himself was a Minnesinger; his songs survive in the famous Codex Manesse. He is depicted there as a fighting knight, likely reflecting his final battle in 1298, where he fell at over sixty years of age.

Following a period of decline and an inheritance dispute in 1354, the town was split into Upper and Lower administrations. It was reunified in 1381 and sold to Austria. But the Habsburgs also were in permanent financial difficulties. So Haigerloch was impounded most times, e.g. by Count Ludwig of Württemberg. Countess Mechthild of Württemberg (died 1485), the mother of Count Eberhard im Barte, who founded the University of Tübingen in 1477, developed a special liking for Haigerloch. During her reign important contracts were concluded, e.g. in 1457 the so-called ‘Stadtbüchle’(Town Booklet) was signed, which pointed the way for the public and private laws in Haigerloch for centuries.

Later, through an exchange with Emperor Maximilian I, Haigerloch became the property of the Hohenzollern family.

Count Christoph (r. 1576–1592), founder of the Haigerloch line, converted the medieval fortress into a Renaissance residence and began to build the Castle Church. He died at only 40 and was succeeded by his sons, who both died without leaving heirs. Thus, the town passed to the Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen line. In 1723, Prince Joseph Friedrich moved his residence here, leading to a new "heyday." Legend says that during his 1724 inauguration, wine flowed from the fountain instead of water. He transformed Haigerloch into a Baroque principality, by restaurating the castle and commissioning the Church of St. Anne - one of the most beautiful Baroque churches in Southwest Germany.

In 1849, Prince Karl Anton handed Haigerloch over to the House of Prussia. In 1854, Haigerloch was designated an administrative center and granted municipal self-government. Prussian administration continued until 1925, at which point the districts of Haigerloch and Hechingen were merged into the administrative district of Hechingen. This district eventually became part of the Zollernalbkreis during the 1973 territorial reforms. After this administrative reform the town as it exists today was formed on January 1, 1975, and now hosts over 10,000 inhabitants.

1 St. Anne’s Pilgrimage Church

Founded by Prince Joseph Friedrich of Hohenzollern-Haigerloch between 1753 and 1757, this renowned Baroque-Rococo church was designed by the architect Christian Großbayer. He was assisted by the young sculptor Johann Georg Weckenmann, whom the Prince had brought to Haigerloch, and the court painter Mainrad von Au of Sigmaringen. Before the current pilgrimage church was built, a chapel stood on this site, first documented as early as 1408. The ‘St. Anne Trinity’ (Mutter Anna Selbdritt) group, which visitors can see today, is modeled after the original chapel sculpture, which was said to possess miraculous powers.

2 Roman Tower

Known in historical records as the "Upper Tower," the "High Tower," or the "Pagan's Tower," this structure was built around 1150 as the keep of Haigerloch Castle (first documented in 1095). Although it has been referred to as the "Roman Tower" since 1375, it does not actually date back to the Roman Empire. In the 19th century, researchers identified its architecture as Romanesque; this fact, combined with the older name "Pagan's Tower," led to its modern designation.

In earlier centuries, the tower featured a half-timbered top with a hipped roof. Between 1744 and 1746, the tower assumed its current appearance when it was converted into a bell tower for the nearby Church of St. Ulrich. The renowned architect Christian Großbayer was appointed to supervise this reconstruction.

The current staircase was installed in 1965, replacing the notoriously steep and dangerous stairs from 1767. Originally, however, the only access was an external staircase on the eastern wall leading to the former entrance—a small "window" located approximately 11 meters above the ground.

3 Protestant Church

Built between 1860 and 1863 based on plans by the Prussian saltworks inspector K.L. Raiffeisen—whose brother founded the agricultural cooperatives—this church was constructed primarily through private donations. The building’s Neo-Romanesque style was influenced by Hohenzollern Castle (Zollernburg), which had recently been completed.

In 1952/53, the Düsseldorf artist Friedrich Schüz, brother of the local priest Martin Schüz, realized his life’s ambition. After decades of studying Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece, The Last Supper, and observing its advancing dilapidation, he decided to create a full-scale reconstruction. Supported by graphic artist Gerhard Halbritter and painter Walter Krötl, he created this monumental copy on the church's east wall.

4 Former Synagogue

In 1783, the Jewish community received permission to build a synagogue, including rooms for worship, a school, a caretaker's apartment, and a ritual bath (mikveh). It was built in the Haag, the residential area assigned to the community. During the November Pogroms of 1938, the interior was completely destroyed by SA men from Sulz.

After the war, the Jewish community sold the building -which had been returned to them - to a private individual. No longer a place of worship, it served briefly as a cinema, then a shopping center, and finally a warehouse. Recently, a group of committed citizens has been working toward its restoration.

5 The Little Haag Castle (Schlössle)

The term “Haag” shares the same root as “hedge,” implying a fenced area. For centuries, this castle was the only building in the Haag meadows. It was built in 1296 by Berthold of Welelingen, a courtier of Count Albrecht II of Hohenberg.

Count Johann Christoph of Haigerloch purchased it in 1612, and it subsequently served as a dower house (retirement home) for the widows of the counts. Prince Joseph Friedrich later moved his residence from Sigmaringen to this "Little Castle," where he died in 1769. The current building, however, dates to 1770, having been rebuilt after the previous structure burned down. In 1815, the house of Hohenzollern sold the building to the Jewish families residing there.

6 Jewish Cemetery

The Jewish cemetery is located at the entrance to the Haag quarter. In 1802, the community was granted permission to establish this burial ground. A memorial plaque, erected by the City of Haigerloch, commemorates the atrocities committed during the Third Reich.

7 Town Hall

The current town hall was built in 1870 at the foot of the ‘Steigle’ after the previous hall was demolished. For many years, it housed Catholic, Protestant, and Jewish schools. When these facilities became overcrowded, new schools were built in the Witthau area between 1964 and 1976. Since 1979, the attic has housed the extensive town library. In 1977, the "Town House" (Bürgerhaus) was completed next door, replacing the former schoolyard.

8 Little Castle (Schlössle)

First documented in 1413, this building was likely part of the city wall. In the 15th century, a large granary (corn house) stood nearby. In 1472, it became the property of the House of Hohenzollern and was later converted into a brewery. After being destroyed during the Thirty Years' War, it was rebuilt in its present form around 1670. It has been owned by the Zöhrlaut family since 1867. In 2003, the brewery was closed.

9 ‘Nuclear Cellar’ Museum

In 1944, the beer cellar of the "Schwanen" inn—originally built alongside a railway tunnel—was rented by the Berlin-based Kaiser Wilhelm Institute for Physics. To escape the Allied bombing of Berlin, physicists under the direction of Prof. Werner Heisenberg conducted the final German nuclear reactor experiments of WWII here. On April 23, 1945, American troops occupied the cellar and dismantled the equipment. Today, the museum features models and display panels detailing this research.

10 Market Place and St. Nepomuk Fountain

Built in 1774 by Christian Großbayer, the fountain features a figure of St. Nepomuk (a copy of a work by Georg Weckenmann; the original is in the Town House). Originally located in the center of the square, it was moved in 1870 to accommodate road construction. Every four years, it becomes the center of the "Bräuteln," a traditional Hohenzollern carnival custom.

11 Guest House “Zum Schwanen”

This historic inn likely predates the Thirty Years' War. The façade relief depicting the Fall of Man relates to the inn's original name, “Ochsen” (Ox). The property once included a brewery, distillery, and stables. In the 18th century, it was owned by the famous sculptor Johann Georg Weckenmann, though he was forced to sell it due to heavy debts. In 1833, it was renamed “Schwanen.” Following extensive renovations, it has returned to its former splendor.

12 Großbayer House

Built in 1703, this was the home of Late Baroque master builder Christian Großbayer. It was meticulously renovated between 1988 and 1990 to reflect its original state. The frescoes on the gable, attributed to Mainrad von Au, depict various saints. The interior is notable for its period woodwork and stucco ceilings.

13 St. Nicholas Church

Dating to 1250, this is the oldest standing building in the Lower Town. The nave was first documented by Christian Großbayer in 1742. In keeping with 19th-century tastes, the interior was redesigned in the Neo-Gothic style in 1834.

14 Castle Church

Built around 1600 by Count Christoph and his wife Katharina, the church's foundation charter mentions that the construction affected the water supply to the Lower Town. It was designed to be a fitting sepulcher for the Haigerloch line. Prince Joseph Friedrich later remodeled it in the Baroque style, with frescoes by Mainrad von Au.

15 The Castle

Construction began around 1200 under the Counts of Hohenberg. Between 1580 and 1588, Count Christoph converted the medieval fortress into a Renaissance castle. The complex includes the tithe barn (Fruchtkasten), the chaplain’s office, and the former courthouse. The Hohenzollern-Berg coat of arms (featuring a lion rampant) is visible above the outer archway. After being used as a school and falling into disrepair, it was purchased and restored by Paul Eberhard Schwenk in 1975. Until the end of 2022, the hotel and restaurant served as a center for congresses, creativity and communication.